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Bastia
The second largest town on the island, Bastia is a busy commercial centre with a population of 50,000. The name
Bastia derives from the Corsica Bastiglia, meaning fortress, and today the Citadel and vieux port offer some of
the best views of the city. The magnificent Place St. Nicolas is really the heart of the city, and is the perfect
place to relax and unwind in one of the many cafes or restaurants overlooking the port. Nearby is the quieter place
de Hotel de Ville, where the lively Saturday market is a great place to buy local jams, cheeses, charcuterie and
honey. Bastia also has its share of beaches; pebble to the north, sandy to the south with the superb Mariana beach
that borders the ornithological reserve of the Pond of Biguglia - a favourite with birdwatchers.
Cap Corse
Known as the island within an island, Cap Corse is the sacred promontory
to the north east of St. Florent. It stretches 40km long by 10km wide and until the Corniche road which circles
the Cap was built by Napoleon III in the mid 19th century, Cap Corse was effectively cut off from the rest of the
Island, accessible only by sea. The drive around Cap Corse can be slow and tortuous, but the stunning varied scenery
is well worth the effort. Driving in an anti-clockwise direction means that the drive down the west coast of the
Cap gives wonderful views of the Desert and mountains of Haute Corse as you drive south. However, some people prefer
to drive in a clockwise direction so as to keep to the mountain rather than the sea side of the road.
The east coast is home to a collection of delightful little villages and fishing ports.
Slightly inland from Miomo, San Martino di lota, reputedly one of the prettiest villages on the island, its hamlets are dotted along the
hillside under the verdant awning of the oaks and chestnut trees.
Erbalunga was once the most important harbour on the Cap, and today the magnificent houses testify to the former
wealth of the area. Cars are not allowed in the village itself, and the network of narrow streets converge on the
tiny harbour with its colourful boats. The ruins of a Genoese tower are popular with painters.
Macinaggio, famous for its Muscat is, perhaps unsurprisingly, at the edge of the Sentier des Douaniers (Custom
Officers Route). Patrolled in days of old by customs officers trying to control smuggling, the path runs for miles
through the fragrant maquis to nearby Rogliano and then on to Centuri-Port on the west coast.
On the northern tip is the nature reserve of Finocchiarola where one can find the Audoin gulls as well as the beaches of Sainte Marie and Tamarone.
The villages dotted along the west coast are the more dramatic, with villages perched precariously above the sea.
Centuri-Port to the north is a pretty little harbour that was established by the Romans. Once a busy trading centre
it also has a military history, with canons now forming the mooring posts in the harbour.
Nonza
is famous for its 16th Century Eglise Ste-Julie, which houses a painting of the crucifixion of Julie, the patron
saint of Corsica. Also of note is the unusual square tower where Captain Casella reputedly staved off 1200 French
soldiers single handily for three days in 1768. Legend has it that the ageing Captain somehow managed to fire all
the guns simultaneously!
Monte Stello is the
highest point at about 3,000 feet.
Patrimonio
The Patrimonio region is most famous for its vineyards and much of Corsica's best wine is produced in this area.
The dozens of vineyards are now linked by the Route des Vins, which is signposted throughout the region. The vignerons
are always willing to let you sample the wines, and the Patrimonio Muscat is particularly good.
THE NEBBIO
Gentle hills and valleys rising up from the Gulf of St. Florent, this is
a delightful area of vineyards and olive groves. Luscious Muscat wines and very good white, rose and red wines
are produced here.
Oletta
and Poggio d'Oletta
are also worth a visit. Oletta is a large sunny village overlooking the gulf. Its narrow streets are home to approximately
ten local artisans whose workshops are open to the public. It is also a good centre for tasting and buying wine.
The beautiful 18th Century Eglise de San Cervone dominates the nearby village of Poggio d'Oletta (key can be found
at the town hall if closed).
Murato,
further up into the hills, is home to the isolated 12th century Pisan church of St. Michel. Built in green and
white granite, it is a fine example of early Corsican architecture with its bizarre, almost pagan sculpted detail.
It was here too that the first Corsican coins depicting the Moors Head were minted. There is also an excellent
Ferme Auberge in the area, but it's advisable to book in advance.
St Florent
Often know as the Corsican Saint Tropez, at first sight, St. Florent appears
to be a bustling, attractive waterfront town, with boats, bars, excellent fish restaurants and an almost permanent
game of boules in the square, but stroll into the old town and you discover a charming, ageless quartier of old
houses, little shops and wine bars.
The name St. Florent derives from the Bishop Florent who served as Bishop of Nebium following his exile to Corsica
from North Africa by King Huneric, the king of the vandals during the 5th century. Florent's remains were taken
to Treviso, and in 1770 the Bishop of the Nebbio asked the pope for a skeleton on which he built up some features
in wax and dressed the body, which now lies in a glass casket, as a Roman soldier.
The town centres around the 15th Century Genoese Citadel that today plays host to events such as Porto Latino,
a Latin music extravaganza held each year during August. The sheltered bay stretches from the port to a sandy beach
that seems never ending. There are some beautiful beaches in the area, the best being only really accessible by
sea, foot or horseback. Boats from the marina will take you to Loto, and fabulous Saleccia beach the location for
the Hollywood epic The Longest Day.
Desert des Agriates
To the west of St. Florent lies the Desert des Agriates, so named after
the Corsican word Agriates, meaning 'cultivated plots'. An area of wild maquis and rocky outcrops, the inhabitants
of the villages of the Cap Corse once came by boat to tend crops cultivated here between the peaks and hills. Today
access to the beautiful coastline of Agriates is easier by sea than over the very rough tracks that network the
Desert. 7km west of St. Florent is the Tour de Mortella, one of the most impressive examples of Genoese architecture
in the area. Built in 1520 as a weapon against piracy, the tower is accessible only on foot or horseback and so
quickly fell into disuse.
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