Everything you need to know for your holidays in Corsica...
Eating out - Corsican cuisine
Dining out is one of the main pastimes in Corsica, and something that is taken very seriously! Originally mountain people, the food in Corsica does tend to reflect this with hearty soups, meat and vegetables forming the staple of traditional Corsican Cuisine. Simple dishes with strong flavours, the herbs of the maquis and locally produced olive oil both add their unique taste to the variety of dishes on offer.
When choosing a restaurant, it is important to think about your location. For example, if you are staying inland it is best to stick to the meat dishes as the fish (with the exception of river trout and salmon) could well be frozen and so the quality probably won't be as good as that on offer closer to the coast.
I have given below some of my favourite restaurants, but please bear in mind that is just my personal opinion, and as Corsica is a seasonal destination, the chefs do sometimes change from one year to the next.
Chez Parenti, Propriano (SW) - No trip to the Valinco would be complete without a meal at Chez Parenti. Situated just along the port, you can choose to sit either inside, or on the terrace overlooking the sea. The service is excellent as is the food. Ideal for those with a discerning palate or couples looking for a romantic evening out, but it can get pretty busy so you are advised to book in advance.
Restaurant Bischoff, Propriano (SW) - Mr Bischoff is a butcher, so the meat dishes here are excellent and copious. Next door to the restaurant, they have their shop which is worth a mention because they are also a traiteur so if you don't want to eat out, you can always buy the dishes you want and heat them up at home.
Riva Bella, Propriano (SW) - Just on the port in Propriano the Riva Bella has recently updated its menu and its image thanks to the acquisition of the chef who previously worked at TERRACOTTA so you can now eat there just as well much more cheaply! They do a lunchtime and evening menu for 14.99 euros for a main course and dessert (or 17.99 euros if you have the steak) and the food is excellent. The menu changes every now and again depending what is good at that time of year and they will soon have their menus in English.
U Fanale, Propriano (SW) – lovely setting right on the beach at Plage du Phare. This place doesn’t look much during the day, but it takes on a different ambiance in the evening. The seafood is good and everything is well presented. The terrace next the beach is the best seating.
Au Péché Mignon, Propriano (SW) - a little tea room tucked away amongst the bars lining the port, this is the ideal place for breakfast or a snack, and the little chestnut gateaux are absolutely delicious!
Auberge San Ghjuvani, Propriano/Barraci (SW) - A real experience, you will be served several copious portions of traditional Corsica fare including veal, snails and cannelloni stuffed with Brocciu (a creamy sheeps cheese with a very distinctive flavour). They sometimes do ‘Corsican Nights’ when there is A Capella singing.
Auberge Santa Barbara, Sartene (SW) - actually just outside Sartene in the direction of Propriano, the Auberge is renowned as one of the best restaurants in the area, serving home-cooked, local specialities. Not cheap, but the setting is lovely, particularly in the evenings.
Le Tiki, Bonifacio (S) - In a little street just to the side of the Eglise Santa Maria in the Citadel, Le Tiki offers ideal lunchtime food. The little tables are huddled together with large parasols to sheild you from the heat of the day and they offer good food at reasonable portions. Friendly service and good variety of menus (starting at 11 euros) as well as normal dishes.
Le Beach-Bar, Porto Vecchio (SE) – right on the beach at Cala Rossa it is simple but stylish. Reasonable choice and not too pricey considering the location, which is fantastic. The home-made tarts are delicious. Good selection of cocktails too.
U Minellu, Calvi (NW) - tucked away in a little side street just above the Santa Maria church between Blvd. Wilson and rue Clemenceau, this is a small family run restaurant with lots of character. I have always found the Sanglier (wild boar) and Pullenda - a Corsican variation on the Italian Pollenta - is especially good.
l’Abri Cotier, Calvi (NW) – excellent food and elevated position over the port so lovely views over the sea. The food is excellent but it can be a bit pricey depending on what you choose. Owned and run by the same family as the Hotel le Saint Erasme also in Calvi
Chez Michel, Calenzana (NW) - I have eaten here many times and always had very good food (particularly the lamb), but I have had mixed reports from others. Can be a little pricey depending on what you choose, but they also do delicious Italian-style take away pizzas.
Chez Charles, Lumio (NW) – Actually a small hotel on the route between Calvi and Ile Rousse (on the right just as you reach Lumio), but the restaurant comes highly recommended from clients and friends although you do have to book well in advance for tables.
Le Chariot, Algajola (NW) – right in the heart of the village with natural shade offered by the trees (although there are tables in the shade too). Cheap and cheerful, but good food and always a warm welcome.
Chez Edgar, Lavatoggio (NW) – a traditional Corsican restaurant. Good food and popular with the locals, so pre-booking is essential for the evenings.
Bar l’Escale, Ile Rousse (NW) – it’s been a year or so since I have eaten there, but it’s good a good position and the best tables are at the back on the terrace overlooking the sea. Good choice of menu and superb copious salads.
l'Osteria, Ile Rousse (NW) – run by a very nice couple; Mancunian wife and Corsican husband which makes for a lovely mix of accents. In one of the little back streets between the town and the port, the walls of the main restuarant have been adorned with old farm implements which add an air of times past and some interesting talking points. The food is good hearty fayre.
Ferme Auberge de Campo di Monte, Murato (NE) - reputedly the best Ferme Auberge on the island and I would heartily agree - see the Ferme Auberge section below.
u Scontru, Patrimonio (NE) - situated just at the side of the road that runs from Saint Florent to Patrimonio, we stopped at lunchtime out of season and still had a good choice of dishes which were all delicious. They offer a range of very reasonably priced set menus themed either as meat or fish, as well as an a la carte menu. The veal was especially tasy.
Osteria du u Portu, Macinaggio (NE) - A nice family run restaurant along the habour front at Macinaggio, the essence here is on fresh local produce, so the menu is seasonal and will depend on the catch of the day! Not particularly cheap, but reasonable and the fish is particularly good - the perfect accompaniment to the local white wines.
What sort of food do they eat in Corsica?
We have tried here to give you a sample of the huge range of food on offer in Corsica,
but don't be afraid to try other specialities which often appear on the menus, and can vary from one region to
another.
Charcuterie
Particularly good in the Castagniccia region where the wild pigs gorge themselves on the fallen chestnuts, there
is a wide variety on offer. Typically, you will find Lonzu, a smoked fillet of pork, Coppa, smoked rolled shoulder
of pork, Jambon Cru, a smoked mountain ham, and Saucisson, a type of smoked sausage. Figatelli, a smoked pork liver
sausage, is particularly good with its strong characteristic flavour as is Prizuttu, another of the cured hams.
Not often found in restaurants, but something to try if you're self catering... Fry off some small pieces of Corsican
ham with finely chopped onions and garlic, then add a tin of petit pois and a jar of spicy tomato sauce and bake
in the oven for about 30 minutes. Add some warm hard boiled eggs and serve with crusty bread. Sounds a bit of a
strange combination but it tastes delicious!
Meat
You will find a good selection of meat and game on the menu, which will vary according to the season. Sanglier,
or wild boar is particularly good and often comes braised in a thick red wine sauce - delicious! The hunting season
is from mid August to December, but you can normally find it year round. Lamb, goat, and veal are also popular,
often served with Pulenta made from chestnut flour, or beans and pulses. Don't forget that the Corsicans like their
meat rare, so medium in Corsica is the equivalent to rare in the UK.
Fish and seafood does now have a place in Corsican
Cuisine, but is always best taken by the coast in traditional fishing areas. Try the small brown trout from the
mountain rivers, mussels and Loupe by the coast or push the boat out try one of the Lobsters from Cap Corse which
are absolutely superb. Soup de Poisson, a thick fish soup is another favourite and often comes with croutons, a
garlic spread and grated cheese that are then floated on the surface of the soup until they are absorbed.
You will find a good selection of cheeses made from either ewe's and goat's milk including the distinctive 'Brocciu', a soft white cheese which
is often found in the form of Cannelloni au Brocciu. Cheeses will vary in strength and some of the more mature
varieties will leave your tongue numb! Best tried with fresh figs during the summer.
No meal in Corsica is complete without a desert, and again there is plenty of choice. There is a the famous Fiadone, a cheesecake made from
Brocciu which can be eaten hot or cold and sometimes comes flambé with a shot of eau de vie. Alternatively,
try some Torta Castagnina, a type of chestnut cake.
If you want to experience traditional Corsica cuisine, head for a ferme-auberge. These are farm inns which specialise in serving dishes made with home-grown local produce to traditional recipes. You will find them normally in rural locations dotted across the island. Reputedly the best is the Ferme Auberge de Campo di Monte which is near Murato in the North East (you must pre-book as it is very popular, especially with the locals). A beautiful 17th century stone farm, it is a bit out of the way, but such an experience, it is definitely worth it! They don't have a menu as such as they just bring you whatever is in season. The portions are copious, the courses too many and the veal (free-range in Corsica) and lamb are both absolutely delicious.
Vegetarians
We are often asked if there is much choice for vegetarians and I'm afraid the answer is an ambiguous yes and no. In the summer, there is a huge range of salads, pasta, pizzas, and fish dishes (especially by the coast), but if you do venture inland, you will find that the options can be a little bit limited.
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