| Welcome to North West Corsica; the Balagne & the Giussani | |
| If you know the area you want to visit, simply click the link on the left and it will take you straight there. Alternatively, simply read on... | |
Olmi Cappella, a pretty little village, is capital of the area. There is a Genoese bridge and watermill on the road to nearby Vallica, which is thought to have a Roman base. Follow the road to Mausoleo at the entrance to Melaja Gorge where the road winds down to the Forêt de la Tartagine.
La Forêt de la Tartagine
A fantastic area of wild countryside in Corsica's National Park region,
here one can sit by snow fed rivers rushing over granite boulders surrounded by pine trees - you'll never believe
you are just an hour away from a hot sandy beach. The route takes you through Speloncato, via the old chestnut
woods of the Guissani, where you can stop at the memorable Genoese church and admire the panoramic view of the
valley.
THE BALAGNE
Often know as the garden of Corsica, the Balagne offers much which is typical of the island; sandy coves, high
mountain peaks and ancient villages that exude character and charm. It also holds one of Corsica's natural wonders;
the nature reserve of Scandola situated between the Balagne and Porto, and best reached by boat from Calvi. The
Balagne has changed very little since the days when Prince Rainier of Monaco brought his new bride Princess Grace
here on their honeymoon, and one can still appreciate its savage beauty.
Ile Rousse
L'Ile Rousse, named after the russet coloured rocks which jut out into the
sea, was founded by Pascal Paoli, the Corsican leader who gave his country a liberal constitution and freed it
from Genoese rule. With its white sandy beaches and bustling market place, Ile Rousse has become the third busiest
resort of the island, although it still manages to retain is appeal. Cafes and restaurants line Place Paoli, the
large village square, where there always seems to be a game of boules underway. The narrow streets house a plethora
of interesting boutiques and souvenir shops, many showcasing the talents of local artisans. The pace is slow and
relaxing, but when the restaurants and cafes fill up in the evening, the streets of the old port come alive and
exude a truly Corsican charm. The narrow gauge railways stops here, so it easy to explore the surrounding towns
and villages. A train ride through the mountains is not to be missed!
Belgodere, perched high above the olive groves is a lovely little village, perfect to stop off and explore.
Behind the war memorial is a ramshackle old fort with superb views over the surrounding valleys.
Speloncato Dominating the Regino valley, Speloncato owes its name to the nearby ravines (e Spelunche in Corsica).
Clinging to the rocks, the village is without a doubt one of the most beautiful in the Balagne. Tight clusters
of haphazard houses are gathered around the pretty market square in the shadow of Monte Grosso massif. There is
a beautiful Romanesque style church Eglise St-Michel which houses a collection of paintings and sculptures, and
a bell tower which dates back to 1913.
Monticello is a charming and comparatively lively old village set inland from the town of Ile Rousse. Old stone
streets and olive groves surround the pretty village square, and there is a sports complex nearby offering tennis,
golf and horseriding. The ruined 13th Century Castel d'Ortica sits above the village, which is also rumoured to
be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus' mysterious mother Susanna Fontanarossa.
Corbara
- the key to the Balagne - was founded by the Roman Knight Guido de Savelli who was made Count of the Balagne by
the pope in 816 after defeating the Saracens. The Castello de Guido was built on the rock below the village. Nearby
is the Couvent de Corbara, a working Franciscan convent built in 1430. Visitors are welcome.
Sant'Antonino is an absolute must for any visit to the Balagne. The oldest inhabited village in Corsica,
the streets wind up through vaulted passageways in a circular layout to the very top of the village where there
are 360 degree views of the surrounding area. If you find the going a little steep, Donkeys are on hand to carry
your belongings, and the Maison du Citron on the main square provides freshly made lemonade.
Pigna
is a lovely little blue-shuttered village along the STRADA DI L'ARTIGIANI (Crafts trail). It features the greatest
number of shops and artisans on the trail. Artisans practise such diverse crafts as pottery, engraving, music box
making and notably the rare Corsican cetera, a lute-like instrument of Tuscan origin with 16 strings. Also here
is the Casa Musicale where you can enjoy a typical Corsican dinner with musical accompaniment.
Feliceto is another of the villages on the CRAFTS TRAIL. There is a glassworks in the village, which produces
fine pieces in a manner reminiscent of Venetian glass which worth a visit, along with the Chapelle St-Roch, which
houses a beautiful wooden carving of the Roch, patron saint of horsemen and shepherds. La Facuaghja 'House of the
Bandit' is above the village, an eagle's nest clinging to the rocks. Feliceto is also famous for its pure spring
water and the wine of the Domaine Renucci, which can be tasted on the main square.
Muro,
once a hive of artisans, now forms part of the regeneration program to revive the old traditions. Attesting to
the villages former prosperity are the village's three churches, one of which - the 18th century Eglise de l'Annonciation
- houses the Crucifix des Miracles which allegedly started bleeding during a mass in 1730. Just on the outskirts
of the village is the waterfall of Nuziata.
Regino
has a little 9 hole golf course and in particularly hot weather when the level of the nearby reservoir drops, the
remains of an ancient flooded village can be seen. The Regino Valley is one of the undiscovered and relatively
untouched regions of Corsica. The local wines and olive oil are particularly good here
Cateri
is a mass of tiny streets with tall fortress like houses huddled together, straddling the principle routes of the
Balagne. Centred around the 17th century Baroque church, Cateri is renowned for its cheese-making centre. The views
from the village are superb, and nearby is the oldest working Franciscan convent in Corsica, Couvent de Marcasso,
dating from 1621.
Aregno
is home to the Church of the Trinite, a beautiful Pisan church of grey and ochre stone. The village is surrounded
by citrus groves and produces Corsica's sweetest oranges. These are distributed on St. Anthony's day, dried out
and kept for good luck.
Algajola is an ancient fishing village and was home to the bishop of Corsica in the 1570s for several years
whilst he spread the good word throughout the Balagne. He was attacked in the church whilst trying to break up
a fight that had erupted, and the villagers awaited divine retribution. They believed this had come in 1643 when
pirates allegedly destroyed Algajola. The village was rebuilt the following year by the Genoese, and today the
excellent sandy beach and atmospheric Citadel provide an ideal spot in which to relax and unwind. Visit the castle
and the Church of St Georges.
Sant'Ambroggio sits mid way between Ile Rousse and Calvi, and is served by the little train that links
all the villages along the coast. Sant'Ambroggio is a relatively new marina whose facilities include an open air,
salt-water swimming pool, public tennis courts and a small cluster of shops and restaurants (some of which may
not be open out of season).
Lumio,
just west of Calvi, is perched on a sun-drenched hillside surrounded by flower gardens and vineyards. Another village
on the CRAFTS TRAIL, a knife-maker here forges damask knives, which will become family heirlooms. In ancient times,
the village was the base for a sun-worshipping cult, and became known as Ortis Culis (where the sun rises) by the
Romans. There are a couple of notable sights close by such as the 11th century Pisan church of Chapelle San Pietro
with its 'grinning lions' above the door.
Calvi
Calvi is a fantastic place to holiday, particularly if you've never been to Corsica before - you could not dream
of a more picturesque location. There are plenty of bars and restaurants close by, which means you can sample some
of the excellent local wines without having to worry about the car in the evenings. The port is just a stones throw
away, and in summer it is lined with colourful bars and restaurants with terraces looking across the bay to the
mountains beyond. The beautiful sandy beach which stretches for nearly 6km and the gently shelving waters of Calvi
bay are clear, warm and protected, making them ideal for children. There are plenty of intimate coves heading out
towards the peninsular if you want somewhere quieter. For those who like to explore, there is a little train that
runs along the coast stopping at all the villages en-route, or you can connect for the service that runs through
the mountains - breath-taking.
The imposing 15th Century Citadel towers above the town, and remains very unspoilt. When you pass through the ancient
gateway, you find a different world steeped in atmosphere and history. To this day, the inscription Civitas Calvis
Semper Fidelis - the town motto; Calvi always true - can still be seen above the gateway at the entrance to the
Citadel. Cathedrale Saint-Jean Baptiste stands at the highest point of the old 'bald' rock from which Calvi takes
its name (Calvus). Nelson was reported to have said that he 'never wanted to see Calvi again' after a siege in
1794. His wish was to come true, as during fighting on the 40th day, shrapnel from one of his own men hit him in
the face and he lost his right eye.
CALVI
- Fact or fiction?
Cirque de Bonifatu south of Calvi is a lovely area of forest where there are many picnic spots, rock pools
and walks of all levels. Take a picnic and explore spiky pink rocks and forests of pine which form one of the first
natural wonders along the famous GR20 walk (also accessible for non-hikers!).
Calenzana is the largest of the Balagne villages, situated at the very edge of the mountains against a backdrop
of olive groves and looking out across the valley towards Calvi. The GR20, the 'Pennine Way' of Corsica that crosses
the island from north to south starts in the village, as does the Mare e Monti Nord, making it popular with walkers.
Local legend has it that the church that dominates the village square was built on the tombs of 500 German mercenaries
killed in battle in 1732.
The nearby villages of Montegrosso with its commanding views over the gulf of Calvi, Lunghignano and its oil mill and Cassano with its star-shaped square are all worth a visit.
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